25 Mar 2025
15:15 – 16:30

Lieu: Palais des Nations, Room XXIII

Organisation: Turquie, Geneva Environment Network

International Day of Zero Waste, celebrated on 30 March since 2023, highlights the importance of bolstering waste management globally and the need to promote sustainable consumption and production patterns to address the waste pollution crisis. The 2025 edition was observed under the theme “Towards zero waste in fashion and textiles”, as this sector embodies the zero-waste agenda – from the importance of bolstering waste management globally to the need for reducing waste generation, and promoting sustainable consumption and production patterns.

About this Event

Our planet is drowning in waste, fueled by unsustainable production and consumption. Globally, 2.1 billion to 2.3 billion tonnes of municipal solid waste are generated yearly – from packaging and electronics to plastics and food. If current trends continue, we will generate 3.8 billion tonnes annually by 2050, according to the Global Waste Outlook 2024. Poorly managed waste can leach chemical pollutants into the soil, decreasing plant growth and productivity and contaminating water sources. It can also accumulate in the food chain and alter reproductive functions in wildlife and humans.

The fashion and textile sector’s linear business model is fueling overproduction and overconsumption, contributing to the global waste pollution crisis. Textile production and consumption volumes are rapidly rising and increasing the impact of the sector, outpacing the progress made towards the sustainability of its products and practices. Globally, consumers lose about US$460 billion of value each year by throwing away clothes that could continue to be worn, and some garments are estimated to be discarded after just seven to 10 uses. Eleven per cent of plastic waste comes from clothing and textiles, making it third in line after packaging and consumer goods. Only 8 per cent of textile fibres in 2023 were made from recycled sources, with less than 1 per cent of the total fibre market coming from textile-to-textile recycling. A lack of fibre recycling practices is estimated to equate to an annual material value loss of more than US$100 billion. The fashion and textiles sector relies heavily on synthetic fibers produced from fossil fuels, which are shed into microplastics. Discarded clothing often ends up in the Global South, where inadequate waste management leads to dumping, burning, and severe environmental and social consequences. Poor communities bear the brunt, facing pollution and declining quality of life.

Implementing upstream solutions and a zero-waste approach can drastically reduce fashion and textile pollution while producing economic value. New circular textile business models could generate US$700 billion in economic value by 2030. Reducing volumes of production and consumption in key markets, eliminating hazardous chemicals and microfibre shedding, and diverting existing textiles from landfills through reuse and recycling, is vital to the zero-waste agenda.

To celebrate the 2025 edition of International Day of Zero Waste, leading voices from Geneva and beyond joining the panel of this event highlighted steps taken to move forward the zero-waste agenda and key initiatives to reduce the waste impact from the fashion and textile sector, promoting sustainability and circularity. Geneva is a major global hub for the governance of hazardous substances and home to numerous international intergovernmental, non-governmental and business organizations aiming at reaching the zero-waste goal including in the fashion and textile sector.

This event was preceded by a coffee and tea break kindly offered by the Permanent Mission of Türkiye to the UN Office at Geneva and other international organizations in Switzerland.

About International Day of Zero Waste

On 14 December 2022, the United Nations General Assembly adopted a resolution at its seventy-seventh session to proclaim 30 March as International Day of Zero Waste, to be observed annually. Türkiye, with 105 other countries, put forward the resolution. It follows other resolutions focused on waste, including “End plastic pollution: towards an internationally legally binding instrument”, adopted at the United Nations Environment Assembly on 2 March 2022.

The United Nations Environment Programme and the United Nations Human Settlements Programme (UN-Habitat) jointly facilitate the observance of International Day of Zero Waste. Member States and stakeholders are invited to engage in activities aimed at raising awareness of national, subnational, regional and local zero-waste initiatives and their contribution to achieving sustainable development.

Promoting zero-waste initiatives through this international day can help advance all the goals and targets in the 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development, including Sustainable Development Goal 11 and Sustainable Development Goal 12. These goals address all forms of waste, including food loss and waste, natural resource extraction and electronic waste.

This year’s International Day of Zero Waste emphasizes the need for action in the fashion and textile sector to reduce waste and advance circular solutions. Towards zero waste in fashion and textiles.

Speakers

H.E. Emine ERDOĞAN

First Lady of the Republic of Türkiye | Chair of the UN Secretary General’s Advisory Board of Eminent Persons on Zero Waste (video message)

António GUTERRES

United Nations Secretary-General (video message)

H.E. Amb. Burak AKÇAPAR

Permanent Representative of Türkiye to the UN Office at Geneva and other international organizations in Switzerland

Steven STONE

Deputy Director, Industry and Economy Division, UNEP

Paola DEDA

Chair, UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion & Director, UNECE Division on Forest, Land and Housing

Rolph PAYET

Executive Secretary, Basel, Rotterdam and Stockholm Conventions

Maria Beatriz MELLO DA CUNHA

Specialist in Sectoral and Programme Issues, ILO

Matthias KNAPPE

Head of Fibres, Textiles and Clothing Unit, International Trade Centre

Irene MARTINETTI

Manager, Circular Economy and Lead, Circularity initiative dedicated to fashion and textile, WBCSD

Eren OZALAY

Senior Manager, Better Cotton Initiative

Graham ALABASTER

Chief, Geneva Office at UN-Habitat | Moderator

Highlights

Video

Summary

 H.E. Emine ERDOĞAN | First Lady of the Republic of Türkiye | Chair of the UN Secretary General’s Advisory Board of Eminent Persons on Zero Waste (video message)

  • The theme for this year’s celebration of International Zero Waste Day has been chosen to thoroughly discuss the significant contribution of the fashion and textile sector to environmental pollution and consider the detrimental impacts of the swiftly changing “fashion wind”.
  • Every second, a truckload of clothing is either incinerated or dispatched to the world’s landfills.
  • The textile industry utilises 215 trillion litres of water annually. Discarding clothes just because we don’t like their colour is a waste of many litres of water, making the lives of millions grappling with water scarcity even more complicated.
  • 9% of the trillions of microplastics that find their way into the oceans originate from the textile industry.
  • Textiles and fashion industries are having deleterious impacts on the Earth: the lands used for fibre production are wiping away billions of distinct living organisms from the Earth’s surface; numerous species are vanishing.
  • We must slow down fashion and embrace nature in textiles by shifting towards circular production and consumption models. Circularity generates value and efficiency, requires responsible production and responsible consumption.
  • 60% of the waste we throw away can be recovered, but we should prevent it from becoming waste in the first place. Items should be given a new purpose when they appear unusable to extend their lifespan.
  • By simply doubling the number of times a garment is worn, we can reduce greenhouse gas emissions by 44%.
  • Türkiye has successfully recovered 59.9 million tonnes of waste through the Zero Waste Project from 2017 to 2023. 498 million trees were saved from being cut down.
  • Saving 819 million cubic meters of water contributes to the equitable use of resources.
  • We must act collectively to beat waste pollution all together, hand in hand. We hope for a fair, healthy, and peaceful world where resources remain abundant.

António GUTERRES | United Nations Secretary-General (video message)

  • This year’s International Day of Zero Waste puts the focus on fashion textiles. Textile production uses thousands of chemicals, many of them harmful to people and the environment. It devours resources like land and water, and it belches out greenhouse gases, inflaming the climate crisis.
  • Clothes are being produced at a staggering rate, and textile wastage is huge: every second, the equivalent of a garbage truck full of clothing is incinerated or sent to landfill. We need a different approach: one that delivers on the commitment in the Sustainable Development Goals for sustainable production and consumption.
  • There are signs of hope: consumers are increasingly demanding sustainability; important initiatives are bringing together business, industry, associations, civil society, and more to drive sustainability across the sector. They include the Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action, convened by the United Nations, and the Fashion Pact launched by the government of France.
  • The United Nations Advisory Board on Zero Waste is uniting partners to end waste, including from textiles, and to help meet the SDGs.
  • We must do more to secure change: consumers through their choices, young people and civil society through advocacy, government through regulations promoting sustainability and decent jobs, and businesses through embracing circularity, waste reduction, and resource efficiency across their supply chains.
  • António Guterres calls on us on this International Day for Zero Waste to commit to ensuring fashion sense makes good sense for people and the planet.

H.E. Amb. Burak AKÇAPAR | Permanent Representative of Türkiye to the UN Office at Geneva and other international organizations in Switzerland

  • The Zero Waste journey in Türkiye began in 2017, initiated by the personal commitment of First Lady Emine Erdoğan to promote sustainable production and consumption and encourage resource efficiency. Her efforts evolved into a global initiative, culminating in the adoption a UN General Assembly Resolution in 2022, which established March 30 as the annual International Day of Zero Waste. The resolution was co-sponsored by Türkiye and 105 other countries, reflecting growing international recognition of the issue.
  • To advance the initiative globally, an Advisory Board of Eminent Persons was created by First Lady Erdoğan and UN Secretary-General Guterres. This board is tasked with sharing best practices, showcasing successful initiatives, and fostering the development of zero waste strategies at both the local and national levels. The goal is to normalize zero-waste practices and integrate them into everyday life, making them standard rather than exceptional.
  • Transforming societal mindsets and behaviors is emphasized as the central challenge in advancing zero waste. Zero waste must become a habitual approach—a “way of life”—to effectively combat environmental degradation. In support of this vision, Türkiye will launch an international Forum on Zero Waste and Climate Change in 2025. The forum aims to create a collaborative platform for dialogue among countries, sectors, and organizations to strengthen global cooperation on waste reduction and sustainability.
  • The International Day of Zero Waste draws global attention to the urgency of improving waste management systems and promoting sustainable consumption and production patterns. This observance also highlights the broader goal of addressing the escalating issue of global waste pollution through collective action and strategic interventions.
  • Türkiye’s Zero Waste Project serves as a national example of commitment to environmental protection, resource preservation, and alignment with the Sustainable Development Goals. The project has already led to measurable progress in waste recycling: the national recycling rate rose from 13% in 2017 to 35% currently, with a target of reaching 60% by 2035. These advancements underscore Türkiye’s proactive stance in environmental policy implementation.
  • A significant part of Türkiye’s zero-waste efforts is focused on textile waste. Initiatives are underway to collect used textiles for redistribution to those in need, as well as to reuse and recycle them. These efforts are bolstered by innovative processes that transform end-of-life textile products into new resources, such as yarn and fabric, helping to integrate waste into the economy and create new business opportunities centered on circularity.
  • International Geneva plays a vital role in convening diverse stakeholders and perspectives, highlighting the importance of inclusive engagement. The growing involvement of the private sector and producers in waste reduction efforts is acknowledged and encouraged, reflecting a broader movement towards shared responsibility and action in advancing the zero-waste agenda.
  • There is optimism that the goals of zero waste and a circular economy are achievable, and continued dialogue, cooperation, and innovation will be essential to realizing this vision. The event itself is seen as a valuable contribution toward building momentum and fostering commitment to sustainable practices worldwide.

Steven STONE | Deputy Director, Industry and Economy Division, UNEP

  • Waste is a clear indicator of inefficiency within an economic system. When economies produce large volumes of waste, it signals that they are failing to extract enough value from the resources they consume. Over 100 billion tons of raw materials are used globally each year to generate over $100 trillion in GDP, yet two-thirds of these materials are lost, primarily through CO₂ emissions, while the remaining third becomes solid or liquid waste. Reducing this waste is critical for a more efficient and sustainable global economy.
  • The move toward zero waste is a logical and necessary step. It not only supports environmental goals but also reflects a more effective use of economic resources. As waste generation increases globally, minimizing it is essential for addressing systemic inefficiencies and improving the overall health of the planet.
  • While the textile sector may not be the largest contributor to waste compared to sectors like energy or agriculture, its impact is especially harmful due to its toxicity. Synthetic fibers, in particular, shed microplastics during washing, incineration, and degradation in landfills, introducing harmful substances into ecosystems. These toxins have serious implications for human health, affecting developmental, cognitive, and immune functions.
  • The danger of textile waste lies not only in its volume—which currently stands at 2 billion tons per year and is projected to double—but in the way it leaches toxic substances into the environment. These toxins infiltrate the food system, accumulating in the human body and posing long-term risks. The Global Waste Management Outlook highlights this growing threat, quantifying over $240 billion annually in unpriced external costs such as pollution and health impacts from untreated waste.
  • The fashion industry generates approximately 92 million tons of textile waste annually—the equivalent of one dump truck’s worth of waste every second. This staggering volume has climate consequences as well, with textiles accounting for an estimated 2 to 8% of global CO₂ emissions. Every new garment created results in additional emissions and water use, with the industry consuming up to 200 trillion litres of water per year if not managed through practices like recycling and reuse.
  • Circular approaches to textiles offer significant opportunities. Estimates suggest that transitioning to a circular textile economy could unlock over $700 billion in value. This opportunity exists for both businesses and governments to develop markets that support sustainable textile production, drive innovation, and engage consumers in responsible consumption.
  • On an individual level, consumers can reduce their environmental impact by avoiding overconsumption, choosing quality over quantity, rejecting fast fashion, and embracing alternatives like clothing swaps, vintage shopping, and repair culture. These mindful behaviors are part of a broader cultural shift toward sustainability.
  • Industry actors can innovate to support circular business models, seizing market opportunities that align profitability with environmental responsibility. Cities, as centers of innovation and cultural influence, are well-positioned to lead change through creative urban initiatives, partnerships, and platforms that promote sustainable fashion.
  • Governments play a crucial role in establishing the policy and regulatory environments that enable circularity. This includes implementing regulations on hazardous chemicals in clothing, which significantly contribute to the waste problem. By addressing these regulatory gaps, governments can facilitate safer waste management and accelerate the transition to zero-waste systems.

Paola DEDA | Chair, UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion & Director, UNECE Division on Forest, Land and Housing

  • The persistent unsustainability of fashion, particularly fast fashion, is not simply an economic or environmental problem but fundamentally a cultural one. Despite widespread knowledge of environmental and labor impacts, fast fashion continues to dominate due to the cultural and entertainment appeal it holds, making it difficult for consumers to disengage even when aware of its consequences.
  • The issue of waste management in the fashion sector cannot be addressed through data and statistics alone, as repeating figures like tons of waste or dollars spent fail to influence behavior. The fundamental barrier lies in the cultural perception of fashion and its embeddedness in daily habits and societal norms, which even informed consumers continue to uphold despite the known harms.
  • Circularity must be made fashionable in order to create a meaningful shift in consumption patterns. This requires holistic strategies that incorporate communication on cultural and entertainment dimensions, aiming to make sustainable and circular fashion as attractive as fast fashion currently is. Without this cultural shift, technical or economic solutions alone will not suffice.
  • Materials must be critically evaluated, as not all textiles can be made sustainable, regardless of recycling or traceability efforts. Polyester, which accounts for approximately 60% of global production, remains inherently unsustainable due to its plastic origin, microplastic shedding during washing, and overall waste impact, even when recycled or traced.
  • Forest-based materials present a viable alternative, as highlighted in the Forests for Fashion program. Materials such as lyocell and tencel offer sustainability by design through circular production processes. Unlike viscose, which originates from plants but is not produced circularly, lyocell-based fibers enable recycling of water and minimal waste, aligning more closely with zero-waste principles.
  • The fashion industry today can be likened to the food industry during the rise of fast food. Just as slow food emerged as a response to health and sustainability concerns, a similar rethinking is needed for fashion. Fast fashion is often environmentally and chemically toxic, raising questions about the health impacts of what is worn on the body.
  • Consumers are encouraged to assess materials directly by checking garment labels and considering the implications of fabric choices on environmental and personal health. The transition to sustainable fashion involves not only environmental concerns but also decisions about what individuals are comfortable wearing against their own skin.
  • The UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion was established as an SDG partnership to ensure coordinated dialogue among UN bodies involved in fashion-related work. Members meet frequently and organize events to raise awareness about sustainable fashion. The chair rotates every two years, and the ITC Ethical Fashion Initiative currently serves as the Secretariat.
  • The Alliance includes a diverse set of member organizations and encourages additional membership, with specific mention of the chemicals conventions and UN-Habitat as potential members. Collaborative work has included events highlighting the role of cities in garment recycling, emphasizing that cities receive garments from the global market and have the potential to close the loop through localized recycling initiatives.

Rolph PAYET | Executive Secretary, Basel, Rotterdam, and Stockholm Conventions

  • Fashion has become one of the most prioritized aspects of modern consumer life, with many people spending more on clothing than on essential items like food. This shift reflects not just personal choices but a broader societal trend where appearance and the constant renewal of wardrobe items are valued over sustainability. The contrast between past generations’ limited wardrobes and today’s excessive consumption illustrates how cultural expectations have changed and grown increasingly unsustainable.
  • The demand for fashion and fast-changing trends has created a culture of overconsumption, especially among the younger generations, who often seek new models and designs as soon as they are released. This is in stark contrast to earlier generations who lived with minimal clothing and reused items for years. The result is a normalization of overconsumption, contributing heavily to resource depletion and environmental degradation.
  • Modern affluence and accessibility to a wide variety of clothes come at a significant environmental cost. The fashion industry relies on a massive extraction of natural resources, including water, energy, and raw materials. This consumption is driven by constant market demand, leading to unsustainable production cycles that are accelerating the destruction of ecosystems.
  • The Stockholm Convention addresses harmful chemicals used in agriculture and textile production. A key example is the pesticide endosulfan, which is widely used in cotton farming. Although effective in pest control, endosulfan persists in the environment for years, contaminating soil, water, and marine life. It bioaccumulates through the food chain and ultimately affects humans, leading to serious health issues such as developmental disorders, pregnancy complications, and cognitive decline.
  • Endosulfan and similar chemicals do not degrade easily and can remain in ecosystems and animal tissues for decades. Even after entering rivers or oceans, they are not eliminated but accumulate in fish and other animals, eventually ending up in human bodies. The presence of such chemicals in human tissue highlights how chemical pollution from textile-related agriculture can become a widespread health crisis.
  • Synthetic fabrics and clothing materials shed microplastics during regular use and washing. These plastic particles are invisible to the naked eye but enter water systems and are ingested by aquatic organisms, eventually reaching human bodies. Emerging scientific studies have found microplastics in the brain, heart, and even in fetuses, indicating the severity of internal exposure caused by daily contact with plastic-based clothing.
  • Despite the appealing appearance of modern fashion, the internal impact on the human body through chemical absorption and microplastic exposure is deeply concerning. Consumers have to weigh the importance of outward appearance against the long-term health implications of wearing and using chemically treated clothing that continually releases toxic substances into their bodies.
  • The textile industry encompasses a vast array of chemicals across different types of fabrics, from leather to synthetics. Workers in textile factories are frequently exposed to these substances during the manufacturing process. Prolonged exposure, often without sufficient protective measures or healthcare, results in neurological disorders, loss of motor coordination, and long-term disability, particularly among children and women involved in the sector.
  • Economic exploitation is also another core issue in the textile supply chain. Factory workers, often in developing countries, receive meager wages while working in hazardous conditions, producing garments that are sold for exponentially higher prices by major global brands. This disparity highlights a broader issue of injustice and inequality, where the burden of fashion’s success falls on the health and dignity of underpaid workers.
  • Child labor remains prevalent in the textile sector, especially due to the dexterity of children’s hands being exploited for detailed sewing work. These children are routinely exposed to harmful chemicals, leading to permanent damage to their nervous systems and physical health. As they grow older, the cumulative exposure results in cognitive and motor impairments that limit their ability to work or live healthy lives.
  • Beyond environmental consequences, the fashion industry’s impact on human health and labor rights is profound. Many workers lack basic health protections or compensation, while corporations at the top profit immensely. A truly sustainable approach to fashion must address these inequalities and implement occupational health standards to reduce exposure to harmful substances in the workplace.
  • The clothes worn daily release chemical substances that are absorbed by the skin. A study on “body burden” revealed that even high-performance athletes, assumed to be in optimal health, had significant levels of toxic chemicals in their bodies due to exposure from clothing, bedding, and other treated fabrics. In one case, the source of contamination was traced to bed sheets used during a training period, emphasizing how deeply embedded these pollutants are in everyday environments.
  • The buildup of toxic substances in the human body is not limited to production or waste stages but continues throughout the life cycle of textiles. Chemicals used in dyes, coatings, and synthetic treatments remain active in garments and household items, slowly transferring into human bodies with repeated contact. This continuous absorption adds to the hidden health toll of fashion.
  • Once clothes are discarded, the issue of textile waste becomes a major environmental challenge. Under the Basel Convention, the growing global burden of textile waste is recognized as a transboundary issue. Most waste originates from affluent countries where overconsumption is uncontrolled, and unwanted clothes are exported—often under the guise of charity—to lower-income countries that lack the capacity to manage or recycle them.
  • Discarded clothing often ends up in massive textile dumps in the Global South, some of which are so vast that they are visible from space. These waste sites pose environmental hazards, contribute to land degradation, and disrupt local ecosystems. They symbolize the visible outcome of overproduction and underutilization in the fast fashion system, reflecting a cycle of unsustainable global trade.
  • Reducing textile waste and promoting responsible consumption is not only possible but necessary. While it is unrealistic to revert entirely to such practices of the past, modern societies can adopt a more balanced approach that values sustainability, durability, and mindful consumption habits.
  • Social media and influencer culture play a significant role in perpetuating fast fashion and unsustainable habits. Today’s young generations are increasingly aspiring to become influencers who promote cosmetics, fashion trends, and appearance-based lifestyles. Rarely do influencers promote sustainable practices or responsible consumer behaviors; instead contribute to the acceleration of unsustainable demand and environmental harm.
  • To shift towards more sustainable fashion systems, there must be a cultural transformation in the way clothing is perceived and promoted. This includes redefining values to emphasize internal well-being, sustainability, and ethical production rather than outward appearances alone. The current generation must take responsibility and lead by example, promoting practices that safeguard both people and the planet for the future.

Maria Beatriz MELLO DA CUNHA | Specialist in Sectoral and Programme Issues, ILO

  • When we talk about waste, we immediately imagine circularity, circular models, or recycling, or upcycling. This comes with a cost but also with new opportunities. A 2022 ILO study estimates that a circular model in the economy as a whole (not only in textiles) would put 71 million jobs at risk, but at the same time they would create 7 million new jobs on waste management and recycling if countries and societies decide to go circular, which is a big contribution to livelihoods. Circularity is about exchanging the type of employment, not about destroying employment.
  • To adopt this model, there are some limitations:
    • Limited access to finance. Companies lack access to finance to become more circular, and small and medium enterprises have difficulties accessing new technologies.
    • Poor working conditions. Working conditions in the textiles, clothing, leather, and footwear sectors are very poor. The fast fashion and low-cost production model leads to low wages and safety and health hazards.
    • Informality and lack of access to social protection. Some workers, mostly in the informal economy, don’t have access to social protection, social security benefits, pensions, and health insurance.
    • Labour rights and lack of compliance with regulations. There is also a lack of compliance with regulations because there is no capacity in the countries to implement these.
  • ILO adopted it in three main areas of work:
    • Supporting a just transition for workers;
    • Integrating decent work into other policies and programs and into circular economy models;
    • Strengthening governance systems.
  • ILO focuses on four main areas regarding a just transition:
    • Create more job opportunities. In a circular model, this requires providing training and reskilling programs for workers, as they are going to do things differently and use different technologies and processes.
    • Enhance compliance to labour rights and regulations. There are a lot of legislations (labor legislations, environmental legislations). The ILO assists governments, workers, and employers in implementing and complying with labor legislation and regulations.
    • Secure social protection. The ILO wants to extend social protection, especially for informal workers. Children and informal workers sometimes need to collect waste from large piles of textile waste. They work without any protection, and children are unable to go to school. These actors at the very end of the supply chain need to be protected and to have benefits that can provide them with a living.
    • Promoting social dialogue among stakeholders. It is really important to have a dialogue, to sit down with workers, employers, and governments to try to find solutions and a common approach.
  • The decent work agenda needs to be integrated into circular models and programmes. We need to:
    • Promote, respect, and realize the five fundamental principles and rights at work;
    • Create an enabling environment for micro, small, and medium-sized enterprises and cooperatives so that they can make the change and move to a new business model.
    • Invest in green jobs;
    • Build the capacity of governments, employers, and workers, to train people, to create a new mentality or new operations;
    • Raise awareness such that society and constituents know what we are dealing with;
    • Strengthen governance systems.
  • Main existing policy frameworks include:
    • International labour standards and national regulations. These standards regulate our daily working life and can be applied to promote waste management and recycling.
    • The ILO Just Transition Guidelines (2015) give ideas of how you can make this transition to an environmental society.
    • The ILO Code of Practice on safety and health in textiles, clothing, leather, and footwear (2022), the last chapters of which refer to waste affluence and how to address it. The Code of Practice identifies all the risks related to waste management, to safety and health, and gives provisions on how to address those risks.
    • The ILO Code of Practice on decent work in recycling (upcoming), a new guideline that will come in May 2025.
    • Other international agreements and frameworks with UNEP, with the Basel Convention, for instance, on chemicals and plastic use.
  • How is this done in practice? Below are some examples of development cooperation problems:
    • Assessing working conditions to ensure workers’ protection (ILO-IFC Better Work Programme assessing working conditions of 3,000 workers in 13 countries). This program works with companies, managers, and workers to improve working conditions.
    • Addressing occupational safety and health risks in chemicals management in textile mills (ILO/UNEP project in Pakistan). Working with the regional center on managing the use of chemicals and textiles mills, the project maps out all the risks that 100 workers face in their daily work on the management and use of chemicals. The project also works with the social security system to identify the health impacts, looking into respiratory problems.
  • Fashion waste is both an environmental and labour issue; a sustainable fashion industry must respect both people and the planet, and the ILO is committed to a zero-waste fashion industry that is sustainable and fair for workers. 

Matthias KNAPPE | Head of Fibres, Textiles and Clothing Unit, International Trade Centre

  • ​​The manufacturing-focused perspective on textiles and clothing highlights the dual challenge of managing waste: first by avoiding its generation through improved systems, and second by addressing the waste that is inevitably produced. A major issue within the industry is overproduction, with estimates suggesting that around 30% of produced garments are never sold. The current business model—producing ten shirts to sell four at full price, three at a discount, and discarding the rest—is inefficient and unsustainable, requiring urgent transformation.
  • Overproduction stems from brand and retailer strategies aimed at minimizing unit costs through bulk orders, but these strategies create financial and environmental inefficiencies. Manufacturers must be integrated into the solution, not just brands. Improvements can be driven by process and data innovation, extending beyond consumer forecasting to encompass the entire supply chain, including fabric, trims, and accessories inventory.
  • Shifting from large, long-term orders to smaller, more responsive production cycles closer to the point of sale allows for improved forecasting, reduced waste, and the freeing up of capital otherwise locked in unsold stock and raw materials. This liberated capital can be reinvested into sustainability initiatives, demonstrating that funds for sustainable improvements already exist within the system—they just need to be accessed.
  • A collaborative publication with the International Apparel Federation titled Under the Banyan Tree: Buyers and Suppliers in Fashion offers deeper insights into these challenges and solutions. Building on this, an ongoing project involving a Sri Lankan manufacturer and a well-known global brand aims to document and develop a replicable playbook for industry-wide adoption.
  • Even with reduced overproduction, waste still exists, particularly post-industrial waste. Efforts are underway to support developing countries in managing this type of waste through circularity training programs launched in countries like Sri Lanka and expanding elsewhere. However, a widespread lack of understanding of what circularity truly entails persists among manufacturers and governments in production countries, highlighting the need for foundational education and national-level strategies.
  • Effective circularity starts at the design stage, with a focus on eco-design that enables easier reuse and recycling. For instance, upcycling initiatives in Kenya are repurposing collected uniforms through collaborative work with designers, illustrating the practical application of circular principles within local contexts.
  • Resource efficiency is another key area of intervention, targeting the reduction and better management of chemicals, energy, water, and greenhouse gas emissions. Two main tools used by ITC:
  • On-the-ground factory coaching examines energy consumption patterns, identifies high-use machines, checks for malfunctioning equipment or infrastructure issues, and explores potential for more efficient machinery or renewable energy integration. Practical examples include using solar panels, wind energy, or biomass such as cashew waste to power operations like dyeing facilities.
  • Implementing these tools in real-world projects has shown measurable environmental and financial benefits. Factories supported by these initiatives have reduced energy usage by 6,200 megawatt-hours, greenhouse gas emissions by 11,000 tons, and water consumption by 70,000 cubic meters. Most significantly for manufacturers, these environmental improvements translated into tangible economic gains, with a combined savings of around one million dollars, proving that sustainable practices can also enhance profitability.

Irene MARTINETTI | Manager, Circular Economy and Lead, Circularity initiative dedicated to fashion and textile, WBCSD

  • The fashion and textile industries are facing growing pressure to shift away from traditional, high-volume, low-cost, and built-in obsolescence models due to mounting environmental, chemical safety, and health concerns, alongside increased regulatory demands and a volatile geopolitical and economic environment. At the same time, consumer preferences are evolving, with younger generations favoring resale markets and older generations seeking multifunctional, longer-lasting products, indicating a systemic shift in demand patterns.
  • These converging pressures signal an urgent need for businesses across the value chain to embrace new value creation models rooted in circularity. This transition is not only environmentally necessary but also presents a significant economic opportunity, with the circular economy representing a $700 billion potential. Financial institutions are starting to recognize and engage with these opportunities, incentivizing companies to reevaluate their long-term growth strategies in alignment with environmental and societal goals.
  • Circular solutions are increasingly viewed as essential for ensuring sustainable business growth while addressing broader imperatives such as climate action, nature conservation, and inequality. By designing for longevity, companies can extend the lifecycle of garments and footwear, reduce costs associated with resource scarcity and compliance, and meet growing consumer demand for high-quality, low-impact, and durable, safer products.
  • Despite the clear benefits and growing awareness, companies still struggle to scale circular business models. Barriers include unclear implementation pathways, misaligned financial incentive structures, and underdeveloped systems for scaling innovations. Although technological advancements are progressing rapidly, their integration into mainstream business practices remains limited.
  • In response, the World Business Council for Sustainable Development (WBCSD) has worked with industry players to develop tailored metrics for measuring circularity and sustainability performance. These metrics are designed not only to track progress but also drive profitability and deliver positive outcomes for climate, nature, and equity. They are aligned with international standards, helping to reduce reporting costs and streamline compliance with both voluntary and mandatory frameworks.
  • A clear roadmap has been developed to guide companies in integrating circular strategies into their operations. This roadmap emphasizes using performance indicators to improve decision-making, identify high-impact investments, and ensure that sustainability considerations are embedded throughout the business model—from supply and procurement to design, marketing, and retail.
  • Business transformation for circularity involves a fundamental cultural shift within companies. It requires sourcing renewable, regenerative, and recycled inputs; designing products for durability and longevity; and reshaping business strategies to focus less on fast-moving trends and more on delivering long-term value. Circularity must be integrated into all functions, supported by aligned financial incentives and championed by leadership.
  • Measuring and managing circularity effectively involves collaboration across value chains and the creation of a common language for engagement. The tools and reports developed are being shared with stakeholders globally, including manufacturers in markets like China, to support this collaborative effort and promote widespread adoption.
  • The industry has both the opportunity and the responsibility to lead the transformation towards a low-impact, sustainable future. By engaging with circularity indicators, embedding circularity into decision-making processes, and prioritizing the redesign of products and supply chains, companies can deliver safer, more sustainable products that contribute to a low-waste future. 

Eren OZALAY | Senior Manager, Better Cotton Initiative

  • Better Cotton operates at a farm-level standard system focused on promoting sustainable cotton production. It is fundamentally farmer-centric, aiming to support cotton-growing communities by enhancing the environmental conditions in which they cultivate cotton, while simultaneously improving their social and economic well-being.
  • The initiative currently licenses 22% of the world’s global cotton production, with Better Cotton being grown in 22 countries. This equates to 5.47 million metric tons of cotton produced under the Better Cotton Standard System, reflecting its wide international reach.
  • As a member association headquartered in Geneva, Better Cotton has over 300 retailer and brand members committed to sourcing cotton more sustainably than conventional methods. Some members have pledged to source 100% of their cotton through sustainable means, demonstrating a strong market commitment to environmentally and socially responsible cotton sourcing.
  • Financial support for field operations primarily comes from the retailer and brand members; however, the membership base is broad, extending across the entire cotton supply chain—from farmers and producers to supply manufacturers and retailers. The inclusion of civil society members ensures a multistakeholder governance structure where all voices are equally represented.
  • The Better Cotton Standard System is ISEAL code compliant and built around eight core principles and criteria. These principles are applied at the farm level, where compliance enables farmers to become licensed Better Cotton producers. This positioning at the very start of the cotton supply chain underscores the initiative’s influence on sustainable practices from the ground up.
  • Waste management at the farm level is a key area of focus for Better Cotton, where the organization can exert direct influence. Cotton, being both a food and fiber crop, generates waste that is largely biodegradable. The cotton lint is used for textiles, linters for hygiene products, seeds for oil, and remaining seed waste for animal feed, while the leaves are composted. Between 50–75% of the total cotton mass can biodegrade within three months if treated properly.
  • Farmers under the Better Cotton program are trained to implement sustainable waste management practices, including composting and using natural materials carefully. Equally critical is the emphasis on reducing pesticide and water use—two practices that not only benefit the environment but also reduce operational costs for farmers.
  • A recent impact study from India demonstrates the tangible results of the program’s efforts: pesticide use has been reduced by 53%, water use for irrigation has decreased by 29%, and farmers’ input costs have dropped by 15.6% through more efficient and sustainable practices. These outcomes illustrate the concrete environmental and economic benefits realized at the farm level.

Graham ALABASTER | Chief, Geneva Office at UN-Habitat | Moderator

  • We need partnerships to make zero waste a reality.
  • Business models that work sustainably and are economically viable are abundant and serve as examples.
  • We need to aim at changing the culture related to fast fashion, especially teaching people about the impact of consumerist lifestyle choices.

Photo Gallery

Documents

Links